Tasting Notes: Thunderflower Devon Dry Gin (November Subscription)

Ahoy you sea-wind battered, rain-lashed bunch of nautical reprobates!

This month’s delectable, distilled drink comes from near Dartmoor in Devon. When I write my tasting notes for your monthly gins I like to cover the history of the gin’s location or historical significance. Dartmoor has an incredibly colourful history and during my research I uncovered a fascinating story which I thought would be perfect for adding a chill to these early Autumn nights.  

The Chilling Tale of ‘Dirty Dick’ Cabell

On the southeast edge of the moors, about 15 miles from Torquay, you’ll find a small village called Buckfastleigh. If you were to visit the Holy Trinity church in Buckfastleigh, amongst the ordinary gravestones in the cemetery you wouldn’t be able to miss a small building about three metres square made of grey stone with a pyramid shaped roof and bars across one of the walls affording passers by a view of the crumbling tomb inside; a tomb inscribed with the names of its residents - Richard Cabell (d.1612), his wife Susanna (d.1597) and their son Richard (d.1655). The Cabells were local gentry but there’s one family member buried there who isn’t mentioned. This Cabell, also called Richard, died in 1677 and it was for him that this mausoleum was built.

Squire Richard Cabell, or ‘dirty Dick’ as he was known, was much feared and was described in the village as ‘a monstrously evil man’. He was said to have murdered his wife and made a pact with the devil. Cabell was known for his love of hunting and in fact died while hunting on the moors although the rumours were that the game that night was a young maiden. 

He was buried with his family but that first night, as he lay in the grave, his hounds were said to have made their way there and started baying. The locals believed he rose from his grave to lead his hounds across Dartmoor. So seriously did they take this that they placed an enormous stone on his tomb, and then built the aforementioned mausoleum to prevent him escaping his resting place. This tale became one of the inspirations behind The Hound of the Baskervilles.

The stories did not end there. It was believed that demons would come to the tomb in a vain attempt to retrieve his soul and young boys would dare each other to walk clockwise around the mausoleum 13 times before inserting a finger into the keyhole so Cabell could gnaw on the tip. Rumours abound of the site being used in magical rites and when the Holy Trinity church was destroyed by a mysterious fire in 1992, the gnawed finger of blame was pointed as Satanists.

Thunderflower Tasting Notes

About 10 miles from Datmoor where the phantom Cabell would lead his hounds lies the beautiful coastal town of Teignmouth where you’ll find the Thunderflower distillery. According to an old Devon legend, the tiny white ‘thunder flowers’ that can grow on thatched roofs have the power to keep lightning and witchcraft away. This month’s gin is their superb London Dry into which they have vapour infused their 11 botanicals before leaving to rest for several weeks and then diluting with Dartmoor spring water before bottling in small batches.

Since its release in 2018, Thunderflower Devon Dry gin has won numerous awards, including a Gold at the 2020 World Gin Awards. If you enjoyed it, you can buy this and their similarly excellent Navy Strength which uses a completely different recipe, direct from their website. That’s enough chat, let’s get down to the serious business of tasting!

As always, pour yourself a neat measure to familiarise yourself with the profile of this top tier gin. On the nose, there’s certainly citrus but there’s a dominant earthiness along with menthol notes from cardamom. Now time for a taste. On the palate the profile from the aromas is still very much present and there’s a herbaceous wave before an especially smooth finish courtesy of the liquorice. 

This is such a fine example of a smooth and well balanced London Dry, that I’ve started using it for tastings. With a gin which isn’t showcasing one especially dominant botanical (aside from juniper obviously), I wouldn’t add anything that’s going to bring too much flavour. Therefore I’ve kept it simple and included plain tonics and juniper berries for mixer and garnish.

Mystery Miniature: Sixtowns London Dry

For this month’s mystery miniature, you’ll find a very different and more spicy concoction - Sixtowns dry gin from Stafford. Sixtowns keep their botanicals a secret but I’m fairly confident that alongside the classic botanicals of juniper, coriander seed and the earthy roots, it’s ginger that gives it its distinctiveness. This is the perfect gin for a cold night.

Until next month, when I’ll be sending out a seasonal gin, my brave crew - sleep tight and if you can hear the sounds of barking, stay inside lest you become the quarry of Squire Richard Cabell!

Your Captain